Graduate Thesis Or Dissertation
 

Screen printing on tensioned warps in handwoven fabrics

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https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/concern/graduate_thesis_or_dissertations/m326m4322

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  • The creating of pattern in woven fabrics by placing design on the warps and/or wefts before they are woven is ancient. Primary examples of these textiles are ikat, which is a resist dyeing technique, and chine, in which design is painted or in some way printed on the tensioned warp yarns. This study investigated the use of the screen process method to print the design on tensioned warps in handwoven fabrics. Three experimental warps (cotton, linen, and rayon), were printed and woven. The interaction of the fiber content of the warp, set, weave, and the color of warp, weft, and print were observed. Assessments were made to determine combinations which would achieve a clear and forceful design statement. Results of experiments suggested the importance of selecting yarn for warp which is inelastic, relatively fine and which will allow thorough dye penetration. Best dye penetration was achieved in rayon, and best results were achieved when the warp was threaded and woven in a pattern which exposed a high proportion of the warp yarn. In addition, the printed design was strongest after weaving when both warp and weft threads were a neutral color of light value. Using the screen process method to print design on tensioned warps gave advantages of promoting thorough dye penetration, allowed speed and ease of design replication, and gave the possibility of achieving good precision in edges of design motif.
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